19 August 2008

The good life...

I've been wanting to write a post that shows the good things that I'm experiencing here, to balance the posts of my trials and tribulations, and show how the tide is turning. Because it really does feel like my life here has survived a crucial moment, and now it feels like every week I am that much more adjusted and optimistic and happy.

So my next post will be a list of the good things, just like I made a list of the difficult things a while back...

But first I want to look at the very best thing (so far), which is the beach. I began my last post intending to talk about my experience at the beach this past weekend, to show certain concerned individuals (Grandma!) that things here are not so bad. But in telling about the beach, it was necessary to talk about transportation to the beach, and then I got all side-tracked. And at the end I realized it was probably going to be added to the list of things that Grandma is worrying about!!

Once you survive the highway to Pochutla, you are within easy reach of so many amazing beaches. Puerto Angel, Mazunte, San Agustinillo, Zipolite... And a little further, Puerto Escondido in one direction, las Bahias de Huatulco in the other...

This weekend I was in San Agustinillo for the wedding of 2 former English teachers here at the university. I had only worked with them for a few weeks before they left, so I was pleasantly surprised to get invited to the celebration. I'm so glad I was, for many reasons. It was the most non-traditional, respectful partnership ceremony I've ever witnessed. Because of the travels of the bride and groom (she's from Illinois, he's from Australia), guests were from all over the world. It was informal and comfortable, with great food and dancing under a full moon into the wee hours of the morning...

I had a few hours on the beach before the wedding, alternating between reading on my stomach and laying on my back in blissful silence as the waves crashed a few feet away, occasionally getting into the water to cool down and wash the sand off... This is the water I was meant for, none of the chilly waters of Massachusetts lakes and beaches, which even on the warmest days feel too cold for me. (The kids can call me "Wimpica" all they want, I refuse to suffer in cold water when I know these perfect beach spots exist!!) I got back to the hotel in time for a short siesta and a shower in water that didn't need to be heated, because it had been warmed by the sun and so was the perfect temperature.

The next day, after sleeping late with the sounds of the waves and the heat lulling me comfortably, I headed out to the beach again. I had a coffee and read in a shady spot with a great view. I walked up and down the beach, declining offers of seashell necklaces, gluten-ous baked goods and snorkeling tours of the coast. I ate delicious ceviche (fish "cooked" in lemon juice and prepared with tomatoes, olives, cilantro, etc). It was like the perfect dream. Only I was really living it.

My only regret is that I didn't have a camera, so I have no pictures to attempt to document how beautiful it was. I plan to get another camera this weekend in Oaxaca City, so the next time I go to the beach I'll take some fotos.

My only remaining co-worker from the "old regime" has crafted an incredibly descriptive map showing how to get from Pochutla to each beach, and the preferred method of transport. It's easy to get to the first 4 beaches mentioned on any given weekend, leaving super early Saturday morning I can be on the beach by 10am. And walking off the beach at 3pm on Sunday, I can be back in my apartment in Miahuatlán by 9pm.

So my plan is to go at least once a month, probably every 2-3 weeks. I think 2 weekends in a row would be a bit much, my skin needs to take the sun's powerful rays in moderate doses. My burnt knee-pits can attest to that fact! : )

But I definitely intend to make the trip regularly. It is so relaxing and peaceful, and at the same time it feels like it forcibly strips your mind and body clean of everything it doesn't need, and just leaves the important stuff. I felt my patience and energy recharged. I was told that once you experience the beaches here, that embody the very essence of what a beach can and should be, you can put up with all the challenges of living in Miahuatlán and working at the university. And I can see now that it's true, the beach alone makes everything else worth it. Even if there weren't other good things. But there are...

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